Keys on the Green | Evergreen
KEYS ON THE GREEN AT EVERGREEN GOLF COURSE
Nearly 35 years ago, Evergreen Golf Course’s original clubhouse, overlooking Evergreen Lake on Upper Bear Creek Road, was converted into a restaurant, with its name—Keys on the Green—a nod to Denver Broncos fullback Jon “Make Those Miracles Happen” Keyworth.
I rooted hard for that Orange Crush team, just as I’m rooting hard for my friend Craig Caldwell, who’s been killing it at Keys on the Green ever since Denver City and County Parks last year awarded the management to him and his partners. Back in the 1990s, they started Brooklyn’s, the classic Denver sports bars, and in 2009 Craig built Wicky’s, a fine-dining mecca on Mexico’s Playa Del Carmen.
Upon taking over the year-round Keys on the Green operation, he trained a manager and the best waitstaff from the old regime and, most importantly, poached chef Kevin O’Brien from the Colorado casino circuit.
And then…he renovated the caretaker’s house on the property and moved in so he can stay onsite. And why not? He’s in a gorgeous mountain setting, surrounded by towering pines, the rushing waters of Bear Creek and occasional visits from majestic herds of elk. His “job” is hanging out and welcoming customers, who have a few choices as to where they dine: the main dining area with its atmosphere of rustic elegance (a four-sided rock fireplace is centered in the historic interior log walls), the tranquil creekside outdoor patio, and a newly refurbished upstairs patio with a dazzling view. “It’s a lifestyle move for me,” he says. “I feel so lucky, like I’m having a party every night.”
The varied menu offers entrees for meat eaters, vegetarians and fish lovers. I checked all three boxes during a recent visit. Appetizers were highlighted by Crab Cakes, the real kind that fall apart because there’s little breading—just lump crab with a touch of Panko, lemon and basil, drizzled with lemon aioli. The Lobster Egg Rolls arrived stuffed with goat cheese, grape tomatoes, red onion and cilantro along with the Maine attraction. The Seared Hoisin Tuna Kabobs, plated with grilled vegetables and toasted sesame dressing, could have substituted for an entree.
But it didn’t. For the main course, I couldn’t resist Osso Bucco, the restaurant’s best seller, a Northern Italian staple done right—a slow braised pork shank, velvety falling-off-the-bone tender, in herbed au jus with rich and creamy smoked gouda mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables. The nightly specials—“Craig’s list”—include succulent Lobster Ravioli with Shrimp on Fridays. And out of devotion to his lovely wife Doreen, who hails from Minnesota, Thursday is Walleye night—almond-crusted Great Lakes filets, pan-fried and served with herbed potato cakes. Yer dern-tootin’!
Dessert was Bread Pudding, which resembled a fried doughnut more than the classic baked showstopper; the rum-raisin sauce with vanilla custard reined it in. Craig humbly says he wants “the best restaurant on a golf course that’s not a country club.”
He’s well on his way. Keys reportedly has a killer Sunday brunch, giving rise to the term “friends with benedicts.”
29614 Upper Bear Creek; 303-670-3955; keysonthegreen.net
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