Landmark Dining

Jing, south suburbia’s shiny new pearl, headlines a list of chic summer hot spots.

 

“It’s a nice day for a white wedding.” 

I have no idea whether Charlie Huang, who also owns and operates Little Ollie’s in Cherry Creek, had Billy Idol’s ’80s dance tune in his head when he unveiled Jing in the new Greenwood Village Landmark development center, but I’ve got to believe that somewhere in the recesses of his mind, he must have been thinking nuptials.

How else, then, to explain this white-on-white Chinese restaurant, a sensory neck-jerker whose dining-room ceiling is wreathed with a virgin white serpentine—silken, draped with beads and entirely reminiscent of a giant garter belt? Looking up at that ceiling, I imagine a wedding where a motley male crew lifts its arms skyward in hopes that the flowing fabric will dance straight into their palms. Of course, the weight of all those beads would undoubtedly knock the boys straight into one of the stark-white, curved and buttoned leather booths. 

Jing is far more sophisticated then the above scenario, but you can’t overlook the fact that the saintly dining room is a call to lovebirds. Beyond the milky booths, white bamboo, and snow-hued swaths of fabric stretched across the ceiling, the room is veiled with white tablecloths, with the only utterances of color being the curtains the shade of vibrant violets and vases of fresh flowers. Just like a wedding. 

That’s the pure, pristine side of Jing. On the other side, in the bar, the vibe is decidedly after-party, a dark and sultry assemblage of tufted purple banquettes, black velveteen, armless chairs, black-leather booths, their privacy protected by curtains, and crystal beaded chandeliers that give off a sexy glow. Behind the banquettes, faux flames flicker against the wall. 

And while Jing’s food isn’t nearly as exuberant or intoxicating as the multi-million-dollar space, the menu is a well-crafted, albeit familiar, roster of classic Chinese dishes augmented by a few suave sidekicks, like the peppercorn tenderloin and lobster tempura, lobster fried rice, crisp-crusted whole fish with a Sichuan sweet and sour sauce, and Colorado lamb chops smeared with a wasabi-hoisin sauce. 

No, you haven’t lost your taste sensation … although the Buddha Drop, a potent, but highly drinkable cocktail of Citron vodka and lemonade spiked with a Buddha button, otherwise known as a Sichuan peppercorn, imparts a curious tingling numbness on your tongue that somehow heightens the fiery flavors of Chinese cuisine. Though it’s called a “pepper,” the little rust-colored bud is actually a berry from a tree similar to a prickly ash. 

Reserve … the booth that sits just below the cascading waterfall, a transparent sheet of glass that backs up to the bar shelves stocked with every imaginable spirit. That booth is also a coveted location for checking out the suburban social scene. 

Go with a group and graze … on shareable small plates, including the beef tenderloin satay, skewered kabobs with fresh vegetables served with a foursome of sauces; shrimp tempura drizzled with chile aioli; and ahi or salmon “new style” sashimi flecked with jalapeño peppers. 

Don’t expect … a menu stocked with shark-fin soup, chicken feet or other unusual or particularly authentic dishes. Charlie Huang’s American-Chinese menu doesn’t delve into the adventurous mysteries you’ll find along Federal Boulevard—Denver’s Silk Row. But dishes such as the chicken lo mein, ginger prawns, and fried rice pelted with shrimp, chicken and beef will tempt your black-lacquered chopsticks. 

5370 Greenwood Plaza Blvd., Greenwood Village

 

303-779-6888; jingrestaurant.com  

 

Restaurants We’re Checking Out in July 

Beatrice and Woodsley 

This culinary destination in the guise of a remote cabin in the woods must surely be Denver’s most atmospheric restaurant—a rusticated, but unwaveringly chic space assembled from recycled woods, weathered lanterns and junkyard chainsaws. Yes, chainsaws, which anchor the shelves in the bar. Gauzy curtains separate the curved booths, the bathrooms are timbered in cedar and the maze of rescued Aspen tree trunks entrenched in the oak floors look perfectly at home in their new forest. The small-plates menu, including a sweet-onion tartlet, roasted cauliflower gratin, fresh cod, and oyster pudding and sweetbreads, celebrates popular Early American foodstuffs. 38 S. Broadway; beatriceandwoodsley.com or 303-777-3505. 

 

Brandon’s Pub

Part restaurant, part sports bar and part Mex in the city, this new Golden Triangle hangout in the Beauvallon has all the trappings of a neighborhood gathering place: More than a dozen plasma-screen TVs flank the walls (most of which are too large to get through my front door); there are plenty of dark-wooded tables and high-tops from which to watch all the action; afternoon imbibers and late-night revelers can partake in two daily happy hours; and the festive Mexican menu turns out everything from a citrusy ceviche and chile rellenos smothered in a tomatillo-kissed green chile to carne adobada and house-made tamales. 955 Lincoln St.; 303-285-0070. 

 

Delite

After what seemed like months in the making, Dylan Moore, chef-owner of Deluxe—one of my favorite Denver restaurants—opened Delite directly next door. Simultaneously sophisticated and retro (love the nostalgic “mixed drinks” sign above the bar), Moore’s hip and groovy hot spot swells with young crowds who turn out in droves to sample the modest-sized small-plates menu, a mix of noshes that peddles everything from potato skins decked with house-smoked salmon, pickled purple onions and American caviar and truffled potato chips to tuna tartare and Moore’s now famous masa-fried oyster shooters. Garage doors open to the street scene of SoBo, which means you’ll never be at a loss for conversation, considering the characters that cruise by. 32 S. Broadway; 303-722-1278. 

 

Garbanzo Mediterranean Grill 

Ingenious, really. Perhaps taking a cue from the wildly popular Chipotle Mexican Grill chain—one of which happens to sit just a few storefronts away—this fresh newcomer crafts quick-casual Mediterranean dishes in a minimalist space hued in shades of paprika and parsley. Here’s the deal: You queue up and choose from an ample selection of Mediterranean mainstays—hummus, falafel, chicken or beef shwarma, rice, pickled eggplant and a series of sauces—and either have the amicable kitchen crew heap your pickings into a bowl or shove them into a house-made pita pocket. It’s as simple—and as good—as that. Just like Chipotle, expect this concept to multiply like a calculator. 8547 E. Arapahoe Road, Greenwood Village; eatgarbanzo.com or 303-694-7777.

 

Rising Roll Gourmet

Sultans of sandwiches head to this serious bread emporium for wraps, loaves, rounds and rolls stuffed with a slew of fillers, including meats from Dietz & Watson, cheeses and all sorts of requisite additions. The light and airy space is skinny and purely informal, but the sandwiches, all of which are served with potato salad, pasta salad or coleslaw, are skyscrapers that require the appetite of a whale. Join the crowds in line and tell the counter people to build you a Reuben, muffaletta or French dip—and then ask for a to-go box. Skip the salads, however, which suffer from packaged, premade dressings. 5380 Greenwood Plaza Blvd., Greenwood Village; risingroll.com or 303-694-3100. 

 

Second Home Kitchen & Bar

Traditional as butter and as down home as the chicken noodle soup on the menu, Second Home Kitchen & Bar, which recently replaced Mirepoix at the J.W. Marriott in Cherry Creek, proves that a swanky boutique hotel doesn’t necessarily require an equally tony restaurant. The wooden tables are naked, save for glassware and cutlery, the columns of stone are decidedly Colorado and the existing wine wall, while still a stunning accessory, is no longer the only redeeming attribute. Executive Chef Che Frey, who sharpened his knives at several high-powered New York restaurants, including Le Cirque and Gotham Bar & Grill, and then later at Roy’s and Sacre Bleu in Denver, has unleas hed a menu that renders classics—buttermilk fried chicken and chicken pot pie—alongside thin-crusted pizzas, a fried catfish sandwich and beer-battered baby artichokes. 150 Clayton Lane; secondhomedenver.com or 303-253-3000.

                                                                                                                                                                              

Vine Street Pub

Strewn with light-wooded picnic tables large enough to seat a Little League team and parading two perfect summer patios, this congenial and neighborhoody hangout for the uptown crowd opened to droves once word leaked that it was outpost No. 3 of the Mountain Sun Pub & Brewery, one of Boulder’s most populated watering holes and restaurants. Renowned for its behemoth, medal-winning, hand-crafted beer list, the friendly spot also dishes out above-average pub grub, including notable burgers, a delicious roasted red-pepper hummus and a serious tower of nachos avalanched with Jack and cheddar cheeses, black beans, salsa, jalapeños and chicken. 1700 Vine St.; mountainsunpub.com or 303-388-2337.

 

Lori Midson is CAG's Dining Out Editor.