Feeling a Wee Bit Peckish?

A proper British chippery on South Broadway satisfies with smashing pub grub, while 10 other newcomers add spice to Colorado’s hearty restaurant stew.

 

GB Fish and Chips 

1311 S. Broadway; 720-570-5103; gbfishandchips.com 

South Broadway has its share of notable restaurants (Deluxe), groovy bars (Skylark Lounge), antique emporiums and trendy boutiques, and now, thanks to a group of passionately intrepid entrepreneurs who hold everything English in high esteem, we now have the British on Broadway. Since opening last year, GB (Get Battered) Fish and Chips has offered a solid roster of traditional English fare, selling neighborhood regulars and anglophiles on the merits of not only battered fish (in all guises, including oysters) and stubby chips, but also of bangers (sausages draped with sweet, pickled onions), shepherd’s pie stocked with peas and ground beef carpeted with mashed potatoes, sweet baked beans, clam chowder, pork pies, and pasties. When you consider that English food has never been held in particularly high esteem, it all could have gone terribly wrong at this Union-Jacked chippery, but instead, GB does everything well, right down to the red plastic baskets tissued with imitation newspaper (sans the smudged ink). You can eat in, at picnic-style tables surrounded by soccer jerseys, beer signs and flat-screen TVs tuned into soccer, cricket and golf or take your battered cod to go. Either way, Britannia is celebrating. 

 

No faux accents: True, the staff (who couldn’t be nicer) won’t confuse you with their British jargon—since most of them are Yanks—but the food is eminently English right down to the core. The menu, inked in neon on a blackboard, peddles everything from buttery cod and tilapia to shrimp, oysters, squid and scallops, all of the sea creatures served steaming hot—and shelled—in a light coat of greaseless batter. This is British pub grub the way it should be, even if the chips (“fries” to you) dive into the fryer straight from a bag. While I’m not an ardent fan of the frozen variety, they’re consistently crisp, hot as lava and golden. 

Counter culture: Queue up, place your order at the register and wait for the chipper staff to call your name. The joint tumbles with crowds during the lunch hour, and seating is at a premium, so be a mate and share your space. If you have issues with that, covet a stool overlooking the kitchen, but better to show your friendly side by sliding into one of the long picnic tables, which are intended to occupy more than just one bottom.    

 

Attraction distractions: You could just drop in to get your cod-on, but then you’d miss myriad reasons to stay. There are card games (Beer Smarts and Wine Smarts), a small collection of books with subjects running the gamut from rugby and martinis to graffiti and grilling, a solo dart board that looks as though it’s been plucked by some aim-challenged lightweights, and plenty of die-hard soccer fans who gather in droves to eat and scream “GOAL!!!!” every time a favored team whacks one in. It’s British revelry at its fiercest.  

 

Bonuses: The patio out back is ideal for lingering over a beer and a bowl of creamy clam chowder. If you hit the spot on a night when the international soccer games are in full swing, you might encounter one of the Colorado Rapids players tending bar. Lucky for them, most people are solid suds imbibers.   

10 new restaurants we’re talking about in April

 

Agave Grill

A high-energy venue sizzling with a colorful, sun-toned Southwest flair, Agave Grill, the latest renamed restaurant overseen by Mel and Janie Master, extols the virtues of Chad Clevenger, a former chef at the Coyote Cage in Santa Fe and executive chef at the now defunct Mel’s Bar and Grill. The industrious tequila selection translates into potent margaritas and cocktails, while the sociable outdoor patio, flanked by a fire pit, commands panoramic vistas of the Rockies. On the menu: duck confit tostadas, black-bean soup, sweet-potato flautas, and mole-rubbed elk tenderloin. 5960 S. Holly St., Greenwood Village; 303-488-2662; melsagavegrill.com 

Asiana Far East Bistro

A gourmet galaxy of contemporary Asian foodstuffs—Thai, Chinese and Japanese—orbits the dining room of this tranquil, upscale sanctuary flanked by ornate art, amber lights, white linens, and a sleek sushi bar and lounge. The spacious patio, ideal for soaking up the sun, and encapsulated in stone, rock and blooming botanicals, is pure Zen. On the menu: Thai lettuce wraps, pot stickers, noodle bowls, tempura dishes and artfully presented bento boxes. 6882 S. Yosemite St., Centennial; 303-694-6888; asianabistro.com

 

Baur’s Ristorante

Opulent crystal chandeliers, espresso-hued woods, flickering candlelight, antiquated photographs, wine lockers and Art Deco tile outfit this century-old, history-strewn former soda shop that’s found a modern groove in Mediterranean-inspired small plates. It all comes together courtesy of chef Corey Cunningham, who cooked alongside top toque Michael Mina in San Francisco. On the menu: walnut and gorgonzola ravioli, truffled risotto, butternut-squash soup, and deviled crab salad. 1512 Curtis St.; 303-534-4842; baursdenver.com

 

Bimbamboo

Joining Boulder’s restaurant boom, Bimbamboo, a quick-casual Asian emporium furbished in sherbet shades of orange and white, is quickly gaining momentum, turning out visually stunning dishes on stark-white plates in a cosmopolitan dining room bombarded with—what else—bamboo stalks. Executive Chef Ed Schmidt, who hails from Aspen’s Range restaurant, cooks with fresh, garden-plucked herbs, natural meats and exotic ingredients from India, Vietnam, Korea and Thailand. On the menu: Korean beef wraps, sweet-potato fries with pickled ginger cream, Bombay chicken noodle soup and spring rolls. 1710 Pearl St., Boulder; 303-442-4575; bimbamboo.com

 

Dougherty’s Neighborhood Pub

A neighborhood hang of the best kind, this groovy pub and restaurant, just off the South Broadway strip, beckons with an animated vibe, especially on weekend mornings, when pajama- and robe-garbed revelers gather en masse in the raucous bar to imbibe White Russians and watch The Big Lebowski before hopping on a psychedelic bus to go bowling. A genre-spanning jukebox, pool tables and late-night hours are additional draws. On the menu: a lamb-studded shepherd’s pie, lamb chops, potato soup, fish and chips, and cabbage rolls. 5 E. Ellsworth; 303-777-5210 

 

The Empire Lounge & Restaurant

Owned by Brendan McManus, the former general manager of Boulder’s Zolo Grill, Jax Fish House and the West End Tavern, this Louisville newcomer struts the talents of James Beard Award nominee and erstwhile Tante Louise chef Jim Cohen. Louisville and South Boulder foodies now have an intimate place—a warmly colored transformation of the space vacated last fall by Pasquini’s—in which to sample and savor Cohen’s classy comfort fare, elevated with seasonally changing, Colorado-culled ingredients. On the menu: organic deviled eggs, macaroni and cheese bolstered with pancetta, pumpkin risotto, beef short ribs, and braised lamb. 816 Main St.; Louisville; 303-665-2521; theempirerestaurant.com

 

Gemelli’s

Dishing up dinner and weekend brunch in a renovated Victorian house in the up-and-coming Berkeley Park neighborhood, this kitschy, East Coast-inspired Italian trattoria, furbished with soft lemon-hued walls showcasing contemporary artwork, lofted ceilings and wooden accents, focuses on familiar Italian offerings that won’t leave your wallet wailing. Grab a seat on the back patio, flush with landscaped gardens and an arbor, and soak up the rays. On the menu: mussels marinara, linguine with red or white clam sauce, shrimp fra diavolo, and a slew of thin-crusted, but chewy pizzas. 4363 Tennyson St.; 720-855-9800; gemellisitalian.com 

Indulge French Bistro

Chef/owner William Wahl, fresh off a kitchen stint at Kevin Taylor’s at the Opera House, recently unveiled his petite, 65-seat French bistro in Northwest Denver in the former Mikey’s Italian Bistro space. Attitude-free, elementally charming and comfortably unfussy, this neighborhoody spot is a boon for frolicking Francophiles. On the menu: coq au vin, steak tartare, vichyssoise, and mussels and frites. 4140 W. 38th Ave.; 303-433-7400

Maxwell’s 

This fashionably sophisticated American brasserie, appointed with dark woods, recycled aspen trees, etched glass and rustic Colorado touches, is regaling patrons with its infectious, energetic vibe, smart wine list, top-drawer service and eco-friendly practices, including donating leftover food items to the Food Bank of the Rockies and Denver Rescue Mission. Ideal for both romantic dates and business gatherings, it’s a welcome addition to the chain-ganged Tech Center area. On the menu: crab guacamole, lamb chops, wild salmon, creamed spinach and lobster diablo.  7340 S. Clinton St., Englewood; 303-858-0111;

SoBo American Bistro

The beauty of Boulder’s newest culinary darling, overseen by talented Executive Chef Scott Clagett, is apparent on every front. First, there are the creative cocktails (try the lavender sidecar), mixed with house-made syrups and fresh fruits, followed by the impressive wine list, and finally, Clagett’s whimsy main dishes and small plates, employing free-range, organic and local ingredients. A sparkling chandelier, glass-encased wine cellar and vivid yellow color scheme adds to the allure. On the menu: pan-seared foie gras, Mediterranean seafood soup, soft egg ravioli with truffled goat cheese, and monkfish. 657 S. Broadway, Boulder; 303-494-7626; soboamericanbistro.com 

 

   

Lori Midson is CAG’s Dining Out editor.